The gilt thread worked up rather quickly. I polished most of the piece off at Coronation.
One hiccup - I found myself with a gap between the diagonal moving from left to right (with the picot twists) and the cloth stitch.
I think it's because of where I pulled the diagonal in to the work. In the next section of cloth, I was able to eliminate the gap by changing how I used the cloth worker pair.
Work on the cotton piece began May 20th, 2016.
Work on the linen piece began late June - put on hold for work trip. Brought to Pennsic.
Work on the silk piece began late August, 2016.
This pattern involved two new challenges - bands of cloth stitch and the top 'crown'
I'll start with talk on the cloth stitch.
When I studied the pattern, I figured out that I would need three braids coming out of the cloth - two headed right to form the fan and a third to swing back into the blocked body.
Cloth stitch is a series of whole stitches (C-T-C) that works its way (left-right, or right-left) across a series a passive bobbins. The end result is a weave structure that looks like cloth.
Once the working pair has passed through the passive bobbins - and tension is adjusted - the pair is dropped to the side and held in place with a temporary pin. A new worker pair creates the next row of cloth stitches in the opposite direction. The dropped worker pair will get pulled into the work on the next pass flowing in that direction.
The next challenge came from the crown.
This thread diagram comes from the Payne/Levey book on Le Pompe patterns ( Le Pompe, 1559: Patterns for Ventian bobbin lace, Santina M. Levey & Patricia C. Payne, 1983 ISBN 0-903585-16-2) - used in a similar pattern to the one I worked up.
I did something very similar - only instead of looping the LHS pair from the diagonal through the petal/lobe pairs (sewed in?), I used whole stitch (C-T-C) and moved that pair into working the next lobe, leaving a pair behind to do the same to secure Lobe 2.
Keeping the tension tight was difficult and I had to use many temporary pins to hold each lobe in place. I had moderate success.
Welcome to the SCA blog of Lady Jane Caldwell. Lady Jane plays in 1534 and is interested in early period lace. Lady Jane hails from the Barony of Skraeling Althing in Ealdormere. Lady Jane is also a clothes whore who will wear clothing from multiple periods to either feel pretty or feel comfortable.