Note: This post originally appeared in September, 2015. I'm backfilling missing posts from mu hard copy project documentation. The content of the post has not been altered from the original. - AR/JC
Separating the first section from the next to delineate where I start to experiment
I did a little thread diagram to try and show what I was attempting. I had no historical evidence to back up this choice – I just wanted to see if the end result would look better. I sent a copy of this to the local lacemaking laurel, whose brain I was picking, to get her thoughts. Answer I got back was to try it. ‘Just play’.
Things I don’t like about this picot style: leaving the inner bobbin pair alone, while the outer pair twists around the pin leaves an unsightly gap when the pins are removed.
I decided to re-run the cotton piece using demonstrating with the double picot style I used exclusively on pattern 1. I also threw in a simple loop picot to experiment, to see if I liked the difference.
Note: This post originally appeared in September, 2015. Several posts went missing, so I am back filling the content based on a backup of the text. No content has been altered in the replacement postings.
Pattern 2, a simple edging, is interesting. The full woodcut gives the worker two options:a teardrop with two picots on top, and a teardrop with three. I chose to work the three picoted teardrop for my pieces. A design this small would likely be used on a coif or simple cuff, made in linen or silk.
I am hoping this pattern works up quickly, so I can regain time lost waiting on the delivery of the gilt thread. I feel the pressure of slipping time ever more keenly. My original plan was to have the five samples completed by Christmas. It is clear to me that I will not meet that goal.
On to the lace discussion!
On the first part of the teardrop shape, I completed the windmill crossing then sent bobbins around the top curve and used the others to create the picot followed by the bottom leg. In this shot, I am lining up the mirror reverse. Bottom leg up, picot, followed by windmill joining the upper curve with the rest of the bobbins. It looks a little janky. I’m also trying a new picot style on this piece – placing he picot pin in the middle of the four bobbins, and twisting the outer pair until it wraps around the pin to meet up with its brothers.
The curve almost juts inward and the two picots don’t line up. I hate the way it looks, so I’ll be playing with the positioning.
The roller pillow was christened with a practice cotton piece. It's been two years since I've touched lace, and I wanted to work some of the kinks out in my technique on cheap thread first before moving on to the nicer fibers.
Using a piece of the canibalized 'horror kit' foam, I prepared a pricking. Using a tip from the nearby lace laurel, instead of transferring the pattern on to card stock, I printed the pattern onto normal printer paper and covered the printing with scotch tape. I eased the pricker into the paper, careful not to punch at an angle - beeswax was used on the needle to help the process.
The next step was to mount my pricking onto the roller pillow and hang my bobbins in pairs.
This type of lace involves mostly plaiting which can be quick to work up - that being said, it took me three evenings to make 3.5 inches. I am slow. I hope to pick up some speed when I reproduce this pattern in linen thread.
So, looking at the picture you can see some decorative loops on the lace. These are called picots. When working with thin thread (which I will be) it is recommended that you use a double picot.
Double picots look like this:
The idea is to twist the thread before and after placing the pin (with a little thread manipulation around the pin in between). When you tighten your pair after, the twist is supposed to travel up and around the pin making a nice stiff picot. When the twist doesn't travel around the pin you are left with two floppy and seperate loops when the pin is removed.
I had a whole lot of floppy ears.
Clearly I needed picot practice.
It's not the best shot, but above on the left hand side you can see a picot that didn't successfully twist. On the right, you can see that the twist made it around the pin.
Now that I've played with picots, I think it's time to move on to linen thread. I will be using the same pattern but scaled down to account to the change in thread size.
Welcome to the SCA blog of Lady Jane Caldwell. Lady Jane plays in 1534 and is interested in early period lace. Lady Jane hails from the Barony of Skraeling Althing in Ealdormere. Lady Jane is also a clothes whore who will wear clothing from multiple periods to either feel pretty or feel comfortable.